Conheça os diferentes tipos de lapidação de diamantes e pedras preciosas

Você conhece os diferentes tipos e formatos de lapidação de diamantes e outras pedras preciosas?

Muitas pessoas têm dúvidas sobre as diversas formas e lapidações que uma pedra preciosa pode ter. Não se engane achando que qualquer diamante pode ser chamado de “brilhante”. Há ainda quem acredite que o brilhante seja simplesmente qualquer diamante que seja lapidado. Por isso, este post irá explicar por que essa denominação, em alguns casos, pode ser equivocada.

Começando do básico: por que devemos lapidar uma pedra? Porque é esse processo que evidencia a beleza delas, na maioria das vezes. Antes disso, no estado bruto, elas podem até passar despercebidas por olhos leigos. O objetivo da lapidação é mostrar as melhores características da gema, levando em consideração sua cor, clareza (pureza) e peso, tornando-a mais brilhante e valiosa.

 

Atualmente, as lapidações mais populares no mundo da joalheria podem ser divididas em duas grandes categorias: as facetadas e os cabochons (lisas). Tem ainda a lapidação mista, que compreende duas variedades na mesma pedra, com uma parte dela lisa e a outra facetada ou em degraus. Veja a seguir mais detalhes sobre lapidações específicas:

A lapidação brilhante, de formato redondo, é a mais popular para os diamantes e diversas outras pedras em anéis e brincos solitários. Suas exatas 57 facetas asseguram que o máximo de luz seja refletido, criando brilho em todos os ângulos da joia. O anel Stern Noble é um bom exemplo na HStern: todos seus diamantes são brilhantes em tamanhos diferentes.

Degrau é um outro tipo de lapidação bem aceita, formada por vários desníveis paralelos nas laterais da gema preciosa – como já diz o próprio nome! Os cantos mais frágeis da pedra bruta podem ser removidos, criando formatos octogonais, como no caso da citrino no anel Highlight, veja:

Já as pedras com lapidação mista normalmente são arredondadas no contorno, com a parte de cima facetada como o brilhante, e a de baixo em degraus.

Na HStern, um time de criação busca detalhes que façam a diferença no reflexo das joias. Um bom exemplo disso é a lapidação facetada exclusiva que foi aplicada aos cristais de rocha da coleção Gravity by HStern. Cada joia recebe um formato de pedra diferente e a adição de brilhantes ou pérolas!

Na lapidação lisa, o principal representante é o cabochon (cabochão, em português), que é um talhe simples usado para exibir as cores e os efeitos óticos de pedras preciosas. A parte superior é lapidada de forma arredondada, e a inferior é plana ou levemente convexa, vista claramente nas joias de cristal de rocha da coleção Pedras Roladas.

Para cada um dos tipos de lapidação (brilhante, degrau, cabochon, mista, etc) existe uma série de formas e contornos: redonda, ovalada, triangular, hexagonal, baguette, french-cut, navette (que lembra um “barco”), briolette, entre muitas outras. É importante não confundir tipo de lapidação com formato (corte), pois duas gemas de mesma origem podem ter cortes e formatos distintos. Por exemplo: um diamante com formato quadrado e lapidação princess e outro com forma de gota e lapidação brilhante.

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