Sérgio Mattos abre um panorama dos modelos brasileiros nos últimos 30 anos

Jens Peter para Giorgio Armani Perfumes

Há 31 anos atrás comecei minha carreira.  Eu era gerente da Yes Brazil, loja mais badalada nos anos 1980. Foi lá que comecei a ter mais contato com o mundo da moda. Nesta época, os modelos que estavam na crista da onda eram Jens Peter, Sérgio Mello, entre outros. Em 1986, o fotógrafo norte-americano Bruce Weber esteve no Brasil para fazer o livro “Rio de Janeiro”, sobre a Cidade Maravilhosa. Com isso, o mundo abriu os olhos curiosos sobre a moda e os modelos brasileiros. Foi a partir daí que o Rio de Janeiro entrou definitivamente no roteiro fashion mundial e muita gente boa fez sucesso! Afinal, não foram só as mulheres que aconteceram, os homens brasileiros sempre venderam bem e são os queridinhos do mercado internacional!

“Rio de Janeiro”, por Bruce Weber

O mercado de modelos estava começando a bombar no Brasil e a Elite Model, agência internacional do icônico John Casablancas (1942 – 2013), começou a fazer um concurso de moda em 1988, chamado “Ellus Model Look”, marca que patrocinava o evento – e que depois se transformou no famoso “The look of the Year”.  Fui convidado para ser o relações públicas da agência e, no concurso, a minha função era viajar pelo Brasil inteiro em busca de novos talentos. Com isso, a Elite, na década de 1990, dominou o mercado da moda e eu era o Booker!

Carlos Casagrande

Carlos Casagrande foi um dos primeiros modelos masculinos de destaque do time da Elite. Fez uma carreira de sucesso com sua beleza clássica antes de se tornar ator. 

Em seguida, destaco Paulo Zulu, que aos 28 anos foi uma surpresa estarrecedora! Ele era surfista, pescador, lutador de jiu-jitsu e o lifestyle dele começou a mudar o padrão da moda. Zulu se destacou imediatamente no mundo da moda. Morou em Paris, Milão e Nova Iorque, conheceu várias partes do mundo e fez trabalhos para Jean Paul Gaultier, Armani, Dolce&Gabanna, Saint Laurent e Valentino.

Paulo Zulu: cabeludo antes de estourar como modelo

Os atores Márcio Garcia, Cauã Reymond e o apresentador Rodrigo Hilbert merecem destaque nesta coluna! Márcio foi mais um dos modelos masculinos a mostrar o que o Rio de Janeiro tinha de melhor a oferecer! Com aquele ar saudável dos cariocas de beira de praia, bombou internacionalmente antes de virar ator! Com o Cauã não foi diferente, aos 17 anos, com uma simples polaroid que fizemos na praia do Leblon e que mandei para o Bruce Weber, ele já fez de cara a campanha da marca americana Abercrombie, que foi o início da carreira brilhante que ele construiu! Rodrigo Hilbert também está nessa! Fez uma linda carreira internacional antes de se tornar apresentador. 

Cauã Reymond e Sérgio Mattos

Com Gisele Bundchen e cia fazendo campanhas mundo afora, os homens bombaram.Na lista: Álvaro Jacomossi, Marcelo Boldrini, João Vellutini, Eduardo Braun, Felipe Hulse, etc. Todos faziam muitos desfiles e campanhas. Mário Testino também contribuiu com esse sucesso pois vinha fazer campanhas no Brasil e lançava os modelos nas capas das melhores revistas de moda do mundo. Patrick Demarchelier também fez o calendário da Pirelli no Brasil. Conforme o mercado foi mudando, o perfil dos homens acompanhava as mudanças e de lá pra cá foram várias gerações que arrasaram. 

Álvaro Jacomossi fez campanhas para Dolce & Gabbana, Guess, Ralph Lauren e Calvin Klein. Atingiu o 13o lugar entre os melhores modelos do mundo, segundo o site models.com.

Pude acompanhar a transformação e a profissionalização do mercado da moda e dos seus protagonistas: estilistas, marcas, modelos, eventos e tudo mais! Após uma breve passagem pela Next, em Nova York, abri a 40 Graus Models, e nos últimos 15 anos o mundo mudou, e com ele o perfil dos modelos, que conquistam seus novos espaços. A diversidade está na moda! Agora, com as redes sociais, a moda busca pessoas originais. Se você tem uma tatuagem bacana, estilo, algo de novo! Isso interessa! Modelos andróginos, que podem transitar entre o masculino e o feminino. Negros, asiáticos, homens mais velhos também estão super em alta! O homem moderno brasileiro para brilhar no mundo de hoje não tem idade e precisa ter personalidade. Ou seja, ser você mesmo já é um grande trunfo!

 

Ed Saldanha, modelo da 40 Graus, em editorial de beleza sobre cuidados com a pele para a GQ Brasil
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