Xandy Novaski entrevista o figurinista Marcelo Henrique Martins

MARCELO HENRIQUE MARTINS - Crédito Arquivo Pessoal

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MARCELO HENRIQUE MARTINS é figurinista do humorístico Zorra, e seu talento já desenhou muitas histórias de ficção na Rede Globo, onde está há 22 anos. Prático, intuitivo e de habilidade única, ele também está presente em lives, com grande sucesso na internet nesses tempos de distanciamento social devido à pandemia de covid-19.

Conheça um pouco do trabalho desse artista que tem deixado sua marca por onde passa!

1 – Uma de suas primeiras formações foi em museologia. Como foi que o mundo do figurino entrou na sua vida?

Fui estudar museologia por abranger, além de história, diversas matérias artísticas. Sempre desenhei, desde criança e sempre fui apaixonado por televisão. Enfim, uma das matérias que mais me aprofundei foi “História da Indumentária”. Também fiz cursos livres de moda e desenho. Dali formado, em 1997, para enviar meu currículo e ser selecionado para a oficina de figurino da TV Globo, foi uma diferença de menos de um ano. Já estou na TV Globo há 22 anos, onde aprendi tudo o que sei sobre figurino e TV, e posso dizer que amo meu trabalho! Tenho orgulho! Entre a formação e um período inicial na Globo, fui professor de cursos livres de História da Moda e de Desenho Artístico, em alguns espaços como Museu da República e Faculdade Estácio de Sá. Também já ministrei cursos e palestras na Globo.

2 – Muitas profissões requerem técnicas. Sabemos que elas também são fundamentais para o figurinista. Entretanto, o que mais, além disso, é preciso ter para seguir com a profissão?

Acho que um bom figurinista é um bom observador! Ter olhos para tudo: ver as pessoas ao redor, em ambientes diversos. Observar como se vestem, como andam, acessórios. E buscar referências, das fotos de família às revistas de moda. Estar sempre ligado ao que está acontecendo no mundo e nas artes, para criar a história de uma personagem, torná-la tangível, criar até algo que seja inusitado e possa virar tendência.

3 – Podemos dizer que o figurinista é um eterno estudante? Por quê?

Claro! Na verdade, todos nós somos eternos estudantes, cada um dentro da sua especificidade. Temos sempre que recorrer a livros, revistas, filmes, material iconográfico. Principalmente se for um trabalho de época, onde detalhes contam muito.

4 – Quais são as fontes de inspiração para um figurinista?

Diversas. Como já citei alguns: livros, revistas, filmes, fotos pessoais e de arquivos. Viagens são grandes fontes de inspiração! Ver hábitos, cultura e arte de um povo diferente ao nosso, traz novidades e frescor à criação! Deixar a mente descansar e criar sozinha, sem ruídos também é bom! (Risos).

MARCELO HENRIQUE MARTINS E ELENCO DO HUMORÍSTICO ZORRA - Crédito Arquivo Pessoal

5 – Um figurino também se faz com roupas recicladas e, inclusive, o arranjo de peças que até então ficavam lá no fundo do armário. Como criar um olhar clínico para essa composição?

Essa é uma das maravilhas do trabalho. Reciclar e recriar sempre é gostoso e importante! Achamos peças no acervo que, com pequenas ou médias modificações, tornam-se uma nova peça. Trabalhamos com tingimento, aplicações, bordados, substituição ou inclusão de novos tecidos.. São tantas formas de reaproveitamento!

6 – Você é figurinista do lendário ‘Zorra’, que se reinventa e está sempre atualizado. Mas também fez figurinos de novelas. Qual é o produto mais difícil e por quê?

Cada produto tem suas particularidades e dinâmicas. Acho que todos os trabalhos de figurino têm sua importância e seu peso. Não existe um mais importante ou difícil. Um programa como o ‘Zorra’, que muitas vezes tem cenas gravadas em dois dias antes de ir ao ar, para narrar um fato acontecido (chamamos de cenas quentes) tornasse um exercício de criatividade e adrenalina para nada dar errado. Também por ser um programa de esquetes, a quantidade de trocas de roupas do elenco é bem maior do que em outros programas. É um exercício de criatividade: trocar o elenco e figuração, no mesmo dia, de vikings para medievais, de um casamento para uma fila de cinema! Mas como afirmei, todos os programas têm suas dificuldades e suas delícias de fazer!

DANI CALABRESA, MARCELO HENRIQUE MARTINS e MARIA CLARA GUEIROS - HUMORÍSTICO ZORRA - Crédito Divulgação

7 – Uma curiosidade: é obrigação do figurinista a busca pelos acessórios que compõem as vestimentas, como brincos, anéis, coroas, etc.? Conta pra gente.

Sim! Como para a nossa vida real né (risos) produzimos a roupa e o que vai combinar com ela, dentro do universo daquela personagem. Femininos ou masculinos, dependendo da história que aquela persona vai contar, de qual realidade social ela está inserida, de algum briefing do autor, alguma encomenda do diretor e claro, da nossa criação e conceituação. Entram aí sapatos, óculos, bijouxs, relógios, chapéus, bolsas…

8 – Voltando a falar do ‘Zorra’, como foi produzir o ‘casamento real britânico’? É verdade que você teve menos de 24h pra levantar tudo?

O prazo foi mais ou menos esse. Se passasse mais de uma semana, a notícia do casamento ficaria “antiga”. Um dos grandes empenhos de toda a equipe do ‘Zorra’ é usar nossa plataforma de humor para falar dos acontecimentos atuais, dentro do tempo que ele aconteceu. Foi um grande trabalho de toda a equipe. Recriar roupas o mais parecidas possíveis, ver os detalhes. Uma honra vestir a “Madrinha do Samba”, Beth Carvalho, que cantou e interpretou a Rainha Elizabeth! Foi um acontecimento naquele dia de gravação! O chapéu dela foi feito em dois dias, da entrega dos tecidos à confecção! O vestido de noiva, produzido na fábrica de figurinos da TV Globo, em 04 dias, poderia ser usado por qualquer noiva, o caimento, sem prova de roupa, ficou perfeito na atriz Flávia Reis. E a pesquisa que meus assistentes fizeram foi incrível e o coral, de atores/cantores negros, ficou perfeito! Foi um dia que todos no estúdio ficaram empolgados e com o sentimento de dever bem cumprido.

9 – Como está sendo as produções de figurino nesses tempos de pandemia?

Estamos gravando cenas, remotamente, com todos em suas respectivas casas. Junto ao programa de reprises, com a seleção dos melhores esquetes das cinco temporadas, o ‘Zorra’ apresenta de três a quatro cenas inéditas e sempre atuais! Eu e o elenco escolhemos, dentre as roupas pessoais de cada um, a que melhor se encaixa na cena, e daí passo para aprovação dos diretores Mauro Farias, Alice Demier e Carlinhos Diegues. Usamos muito whatsapp e facetime para trocarmos figurinhas das roupas. Está sendo uma novidade para todos.

MARCELO HENRIQUE MARTINS AO LADO DO FIGURINO DO HUMORÍSTICO ZORRA - Crédito Divulgação

10 – Você tem estado em lives abordando assuntos sérios, porém, com uma leveza fantástica e que, inclusive, acaba deixando os internautas tão satisfeitos que os resultados têm sido ótimos. De quem partiu essa ideia?

Eu, de verdade, nunca tinha assistido uma live. Amo fotos, amo usar o Instagram (única rede social que uso). Daí veio a quarentena e a atriz do ‘Zorra’ Renata Castro Barbosa, também minha amiga pessoal, me indicou para uma live com a consultora Flavia Figueiredo, para falar sobre figurino e moda. Aceitei e foi ótimo. Adorei falar, conversar e comecei a convidar pessoas amigas para fazer lives. Pronto, logo eu que falo pouco né! (Risos). Hoje, já convido pessoas que adoraria conhecer pessoalmente e que não tive a oportunidade, ou para falar de assuntos que acho interessante. Não fiquei preso em falar sobre figurino e moda. Estou adorando abranger vários assuntos e conhecer mais de outros universos! Só para citar alguns que já conversei, estão atores e atrizes, modelos, estilistas, DJ, chefs de cozinha, cantoras, advogada, médicos, cirurgião plástico, diretoras de TV, coreógrafos, empreendedores… Está sendo muito bom e tem muita gente que ainda quero papear! Dizem que vai ser passageiro, né?! Coisas do afastamento social. Uma pena. A live me aproximou de tantas pessoas! Ah, está faltando Luis Villarino me conceder a honra!

11 – O humor rotineiro na TV e também nos afazeres serviu como alicerce para essas lives?

Levo tudo com humor, porque fica mais leve para certos assuntos e mais divertido para quem entrou. E fico feliz de ter a interação de quem está assistindo. Senão, fica chato! Uso a #lookdalive, me arrumo para cada convidado e sempre com óculos diferentes, todos da ‘Óticas Vejja’, que são diferentes. E já perguntam “De onde são?”. Me divirto!

12 – O que você tem a dizer aos que têm talento, aos que desenham figurinos únicos, mas que por algum medo ou receio, deixam o sonho em ser figurinista de lado?

Nenhum sonho pode ser deixado de lado! Nenhum projeto de vida, trabalho, de realização pessoal deve ser procrastinado! Nada vem de graça ou é fácil! Estudem, se preparem, conheçam o que é a profissão, assistam programas de TV, filmes, até comerciais e pensem que tudo tem o trabalho de um figurinista. Busquem os canais de recrutamento das emissoras, das agências de publicidade. Mas estudem! Sempre!

FLÁVIA REIS, BERNARDO SCHLEGEL, BETH CARVALHO e MARCELO HENRIQUE MARTINS - HUMORÍSTICO ZORRA - Crédito Divulgação
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  • Parabéns Marcelo Henrique. Que trabalho maravilhoso e sonho de muita gente. Esse mundo mágico da televisão, da moda e como você deve entender muito de história, tudo fica bem feito. Adorei a entrevista, super completa. Virei fã. Queria a roupa de princesa para mim rss

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