Chef Emanuel Wollz: a cultura e o amor dos brasileiros pelo vinho

O Brasil é o maior país da América Latina e está entre os cinco maiores produtores VITIVINÍCOLAS do Hemisfério Sul. O país passou por muitas reviravoltas em sua história, mas vem investindo na produção de vinhos desde a sua colonização. Martim Afonso de Souza, representante do governo português trouxe as primeiras videiras para o Brasil, em 1532, com o objetivo de disseminar a agricultura na nova colônia. A experiência foi feita com a espécie VITIS VINIFERA e não foi bem-sucedida, uma vez que as condições climáticas e de solo da região de São Vicente, no litoral de São Paulo, não eram favoráveis e nem semelhantes ao clima originário.

Em 1626 ocorreu a primeira tentativa de plantio de videiras que deu certo, no Rio Grande do Sul, e o mérito foi atribuído ao Padre Jesuíta Roque González de Santa Cruz. Desde então, os vinhos brasileiros começaram a ser produzidos somente para fins litúrgicos. 

Com o passar das décadas, outras iniciativas de plantio das uvas ganharam força e, em 1789, a corte portuguesa proibiu o cultivo de videiras, com intuito de proteger a sua própria produção. Está medida inibiu a comercialização do vinho na colônia. 

Em 1808, com a vinda da Família Real portuguesa para o Brasil, a proibição do cultivo da uva caiu e os hábitos em torno do consumo do vinho começaram a ganhar corpo. De 1817 a 1835 Manoel Macedo, produtos na cidade de Rio Pardo, registra a elaboração de 45 vasilhas grandes e de madeiras em um ano e recebeu a primeira carta – patente para a produção do vinho no país. Com a imigração alemã para o Sul do país, iniciada em 1824, também se amplia a produção de toda região sul.

Produção: 

Foi com a chegada dos imigrantes italianos, em 1875, que a produção de vinhos brasileiros deu um grande salto. Os italianos tinham o conhecimento técnico necessário para a produção e a cultura do consumo, o que conferiu importância econômica a esta atividade no país.

Em 1928, com a criação do Sindicato do Vinho, muitos acontecimentos marcaram a evolução da produção de vinhos brasileiros. A qualidade dos nossos vinhos teve um aumento significativo nos anos 80. Devido a reconversão de vinhedos, que ganhou impulso com a abertura econômica do país. A VITIVINICULTURA da região do vale dos vinhedos conquista a Indicação de Procedência, em 2002.

Atualmente, o Brasil possui uma área de 82 mil hectares de parreiras cultivadas para a produção de vinhos, divididos em seis regiões. A maior delas instaladas em pequenas propriedades.

Em 2017, a produção de vinhos brasileiros cresceu cerca de 169% em relação ao ano anterior, de acordo com a Organização Internacional do Vinho (OIV), o que garantiu ao Brasil a décima quarta posição no ranking de maiores produtores do mundo. Lembrando que somente o Rio Grande do Sul é responsável por 90% da produção nacional. 

Os vinhos brasileiros são jovens, autênticos, e alegres o que, aliado a qualidade, tem garantido o reconhecimento e premiações em concursos internacionais. A maior e mais prestigiada competição de vinhos do mundo, a Decanter World Wine Awards, premiou alguns rótulos brasileiros em 2018.

10 motivos para consumir o vinho brasileiro: 

  1. Vinho tinto brasileiro é mais saudável. 
  2. Vinho brasileiro parece do Velho Mundo.
  3. Nossos espumantes estão entre os melhores do mundo.
  4. Vinho brasileiro tem acidez bom para o calor, bom para harmonizar.
  5. O Brasil tem um bom TERROIR.
  6. Têm vinhos brasileiros para todos os gostos.
  7. Todas regiões do Brasil tem vinho (ou quase todas).
  8. Vinho brasileiro é “alternativo”.
  9. É o vinho do seu país.
  10. Vinho brasileiro é bom, simples assim.

Foi-se o tempo que o vinho brasileiro era feito exclusivamente com uvas americanas, com processos rústicos e, ainda por cima, eram suaves (levavam açúcar e perdiam as características da uva).

Harmonização:

A harmonização, muitas vezes, já se inicia ao ser usado no próprio molho do prato. Harmonização não é ciência; é, antes de tudo, a busca do equilíbrio entre o vinho, o prato e nós mesmos. E esse equilíbrio tão sutil e tênue, depende de um número de variáveis a influenciá-lo de tal forma que, o que está em perfeito equilíbrio agora, pode não mais estar daqui a duas horas ou na próxima tentativa com elementos semelhantes.

Essas variáveis incluem, no lado do vinho, por exemplo, as cepas, safras, produtor, método de produção, região produtora, temperatura, guarda, serviço etc. No lado dos pratos, ingredientes, forma de cocção, temperatura, tempero, frescor, complexidade etc.

Por final e não menos importante, há diversas variáveis a nos influenciar, como a companhia, o lugar, o horário do dia, a disposição, o estado psicológico, entre tantos outros.

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