Titta Aguiar entrevista o ícone da moda brasileira, José Gayegos

Com um vasto currículo e paixão pela moda, o estilista, historiador, jornalista de moda, apresentador de TV, professor… a trajetória de José Gayegos define grande parte da moda brasileira. Do período de suas primeiras experiências em Paris, nos anos 60, quando acompanhou de perto estilistas como Coco Chanel em ação, passando por estágios no Brasil ao lado costureiro Dener Pamplona de Abreu, até abrir seu ateliê e tornar-se, tempos depois, um dos principais consultores da indústria do jeanswear e professor de modelagem, Gayegos é um ícone na moda brasileira.

GAYEGOSS

Você fala muito sobre Dener e, de uma certa forma, mantem viva sua memória, agora, fale de você, como iniciou sua carreira?

-Meu começo está diretamente associado a ele. Até os 20 anos, imaginava que seria advogado, aí, nas férias da imobiliária que eu trabalhava, fui pra Paris onde iria ficar 30 dias mas acabei ficando seis meses. Descobri um mundo novo, cheio de glamour e beleza, graças à diretora da Chanel, Lucia Curia, que foi modelo brasileira muito conhecida e me apresentou a tudo e a todos.
Depois dos seis meses, retornei ao brasil com uma carta de apresentação para o Dener. Comecei a trabalhar no dia seguinte e, assim, começou tudo.
IMAGEM DENER

Como foi essa experiência?

-Mudou minha vida em todos os sentidos, mais que moda, com ele, aprendi a viver um mundo totalmente novo, cheio de informações , de pessoas bonitas, de gente famosa.

Como você começou sua carreira solo?

-Apesar de todo o deslumbre, estava cansado, todos os dias ia dormir de manhã e acordava depois das 14h, seguindo os horários de Dener.
Sempre gostei do dia e não estava me adaptando a essa vida noturna, foi quando uma amiga me convidou para montar um ateliê com meu nome, e lá fui eu, com a benção de Dener, que muito me incentivou. No dia da inauguração tinham convidados brilhantes como ele e Clodovil, que já era meu amigo, os dois eram os ícones da moda, isto foi em 1969.

IMAGEM CROQUI

Sei que você fez um desfile na FENIT , em 1969 , que mudou tudo. Como foi e qual a consequência?

-Foi inesquecível, porque inovei totalmente a maneira dos desfiles tradicionais da época. Em lugar de óperas tocadas nos desfiles, coloquei um grupo de músicos de Candomblé, ao vivo, misturadas á iluminação e som dos Incríveis, que era a banda mais famosa do Brasil na época .
O retorno de toda essa inovação, resultou no convite do estilista Ted Lapidus para trabalhar com ele em Paris ao mesmo tempo que a Globo me convidou para fazer os figurinos de abertura e do núcleo Tônia Carrero na novela Pigmalião 70. Foi um furor. Logo em seguida, a convite do Boni, criei os figurinos de abertura do Premiere Mundial.

IMAGEM PIGMALIÃO

Você não continuou na Globo, por quê?

-Convite não faltou, mas estava na minha cabeça ir pra Paris trabalhar como Ted Lapidus. Eu não estava satisfeito com a parte técnica do meu trabalho , fiz um acordo com minha sócia, ela comprou minha parte e lá fui eu morar em Paris. Chegando lá, achando que ia ser uma espécie de assistente dele, como tinha sido para Dener, iria ser mais um na equipe, então, preferi ir estudar na Guerre-Lavigne, atual Esmod, que é a melhor escola. Fiquei dois anos estudando e voltei para o Brasil, que é uma outra história e que dá um livro. Chegando aqui, trabalhei em várias confecções , fazendo meu pé de meia, pois a alta costura estava em decadência. Me especializei em jeans e, provavelmente, sou o estilista que mais vestiu brasileiras e brasileiros. Só a Alpargatas, que fazia a USTOP e JENERATION fabricava um milhão de peças por mês, sem falar em outras como as Lojas Marisa, cujos fabricantes me contratavam coleções. Trabalhei para o Ocimar Versolato, montando toda a equipe técnica de modelagem para seu ateliê. A lista é enorme, não dá pra colocar tudo aqui.

Em 1994, você começou a trabalhar para o SENAC, como isso aconteceu?

-Eu já era conhecido no mercado, e um ex diretor da Alpargatas me apresentou para a diretora que cuidava da área de moda e o SENAC queria mudar o perfil de fazer cursos curtos para projetos mais ambiciosos, como a faculdade, mas, antes, fizemos um acordo com a ESMOD PARIS, trouxemos cinco professores de lá. Esse acordo durou 20 anos. Também criei uma metodologia própria e exclusiva para eles que é utilizada até hoje. Fiquei 14 anos com eles e me aposentei, mas nunca deixei de colaborar. Recentemente gravei uma série de aulas magnas que eles transmitem na forma online por conta da pandemia. O SENAC é minha casa e lá fiz e faço o que mais gosto. Transmitir conhecimentos.

Você também foi apresentardor de uma programa na All TV e famoso por ser um agente provocador.

-Sim, sem esquecer que por tua causa, fui parar na ALLTV, onde fiquei por 4 anos. Como agente provocador (Risos), digamos que nasci assim e fui me aperfeiçoando!

Obrigado.

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