Ricardo Schöpke inaugura a série “Sítios portugueses (não tão) Escondidos” em Curia, Distrito de Aveiro

Quando se pensa em visitar Portugal, o roteiro que se busca com mais frequência são os distritos de Lisboa, Porto, Aveiro, Coimbra, o Algarve em Faro, a Ilha da Madeira ou o arquipélago de Açores. Todos belos e obrigatórios se você pretende conhecer aquilo que todo o mundo já conhece. Daí nasceu a ideia de apresentarmos e exploramos as ricas possibilidades que cada um dos cantinhos de Portugal podem nos oferecer, e intitulei essa série de: “Sítios portugueses (não tão) Escondidos”. Apresentaremos assim os caminhos, segredos e as facilidades que cada um destes pode apresentar em estarem situados em lugares estratégicos, e bem ao lado daqueles que conhecemos ou que sempre ouvimos falar. Começamos assim a nossa série, com o “lugar” – nome denominado por Maria João Rosmaninho, proprietária do Hotel Parque, um dos mais antigos estabelecimentos do local -, de nome Curia.

Curia, é situada no Concelho de Tamengos, na Freguesia de Anadia; e em termos urbanos pode ser considerada apenas por uma estação de comboio (trem), duas grandes ruas que se cruzam, e no meio delas temos uma rotunda com o imponente monumento da “Deusa Íris, a Gota da Curia”, muitos hectares de verde, e três hotéis históricos. Pode-se chegar em Curia pelo comboio de Lisboa- Santa Apolônia, em 2:15; ou pelo comboio do Porto-Campanhã, em 50 minutos, saltando na estação de comboio de Aveiro e pegando o comboio em direção a Braga. São apenas 5 paragens. Curia é uma referência principalmente pelas suas águas termais de natureza sulfatada cálcica e magnesiana. Indicadas no tratamento de doenças metabólico-endócrinas (gota), cálculos renais, infecções urinárias, hipertensão arterial, doenças reumáticas e musculo-esqueléticas.

As termas da Curia são das mais antigas estâncias termais do país, sendo conhecidas desde o tempo da ocupação romana, mas estiveram esquecidas durante vários séculos. Entretanto no ano de 1865, um dos engenheiros – La Chapelle -, que dirigia as obras ferroviárias da Linha do Norte, ouviu falar das águas da Curia, e buscou os seus benefícios para uma doença de pele que sofria, e para a qual parecia não haver cura. O fato de ter ficado curado após os banhos nas águas termais propagou os benefícios das águas, não só em Portugal, mas também na França de onde era oriundo La Chapelle. Sobre as termas, iremos realizar futuramente uma matéria bem completa.

Na verdade, quero lhes apresentar um dos mais belos, antigos e obrigatórios hotéis, de Portugal: o Hotel do Parque, em Curia. É sobre esta jóia de atmosfera Belle Époque, deste mágico Palacete, que iremos falar. Para começar, fui muito bem recebido pela sua proprietária Maria João, e minha estada foi um convite inesquecível. O Hotel está em sua família há quatro gerações e foi idealizado pelo seu avô José Cerveira Rosmaninho (1894-1983) e projetado pelo arquiteto aveirense Ramos da Silva, no início dos anos 20; e inaugurado em julho de 1922. Antes dele, ele alugou uma casa – e que existe na mesma rua ainda-, e o chamou de Hotel Rosmaninho.

O Hotel do Parque nasceu no auge das termas de Curia e por necessidade de mais alojamentos na localidade. Seu fundador não pertencia ao ramo hoteleiro, mas resolveu se aventurar, e para isso conseguiu alguns empréstimos, em palavra de honra, para erguer esse sonho. Este é um grande orgulho para toda a família que mantém enquadrado na parede do Bar do Hotel um rascunho com as contas e os gastos originais: 498 mil escudos. Toda a história envolta neste Hotel é muito instigante e nos faz querer visitá-lo, ávidos em podermos desfrutar de todas elas, e para conviver com o aconchegante e amoroso ambiente familiar.

O Hotel do Parque possui tantas relíquias, tantos objetos de arte e mobiliários históricos espalhados por todos os seus espaços. Podemos observá-los nos corredores, nos quartos, nos jardins e em todos os ambientes em comum. Por conta disso podemos chamá-lo seguramente de um Hotel Museu ou até mesmo um Hotel Boutique. Cada uma daquelas peças tem um significado muito particular e guarda a memória desta família por décadas, pois todos eles sempre moraram no próprio Hotel.

O Hotel ficava fechado durante oito meses do ano e só abria no período do verão, para receber todos os turistas em busca das águas termais. Maria João conta que por conta disso ela já havia dormido em todos os 48 quartos do Hotel, durante a sua infância. Naquela época os hotéis não tinham casas de banho (banheiros) nos quartos; era apenas poucas casas de banho comuns a todos, em cada andar. Com o passar dos tempos foi preciso fazer a readequação e com isso o Hotel passou a contar nos dias de hoje com 20 quartos.

Desta maneira, O Hotel respira acolhimento e os sentimentos mais puros. Podemos ver passear pelas áreas do Hotel a matriarca da família: D. Alda. Foi dela inclusive a ideia de designar o sótão/cave, nos anos 60, como a morada definitiva da família. Local que outrora era a Adega, pois o Hotel também produzia o seu próprio vinho. Atitude comemorada por Maria João que pode neste momento ter um quarto a chamar de seu. D. Alda é igualmente doce e cultiva o seu jardim nos fundos do Hotel, onde também temos a agradável piscina. E não só ela. Temos também muitos gatos e cachorros – que ficam separados durante o dia. Maria João é um ser especial e que também cuida de animais abandonados. Já ganhando assim a minha profunda admiração.

E é claro, o Hotel aceita com bom grado os seus pets. Tendo inclusive uma foto de seu avô, da década de 20, ao lado de seu amigo canino. É uma essencial tradição de família. Escolher ir ao Hotel do Parque é escolher uma busca pelo seu passado, pela tranquilidade, pelo contato com a natureza, com o verde, com os animais; em um ambiente familiar. O Hotel também possui um bonito piano antigo e cultiva saraus de música. O Hotel é tão invulgar que parecemos ter entrado dentro dos cenários de um livro de Agatha Christie, e que podemos, ao virar um corredor, encontramos com o detetive Hercule Poirot, na busca da resolução de mais um de seus casos. O Hotel serviu também, nos anos 40, como um refúgio, e rota de fuga, de perseguidos pela guerra espanhola e até pelo regime nazista; e já foi inclusive cenário para filmes sobre espionagem: “A Espia”, em oito episódios, apresentados na RTP. Como diz muito bem Maria João: “esta casa tem alma”.

Como podem ver, são inúmeros os motivos que fazem você colocar imediatamente, ainda em nosso verão europeu, Curia e o Hotel do Parque, no vosso roteiro de viagens para “Sítios portugueses (não tão) escondidos”: Uma verdadeira viagem no tempo, as águas termais, a natureza; e o melhor de tudo isso é que ele fica justamente entre dois dos lugares mais procurados de Portugal: Aveiro e Coimbra. Do Hotel para a estação de comboio de Curia são apenas 04 minutos a pé. De Curia para Aveiro são apenas cinco paragens de comboio – 14 minutos -, e para Coimbra são apenas sete paragens – 21 minutos.

E quando forem ao Hotel do Parque aproveitem muito para conversar com a Maria João, pois ela sabe muito bem o valor de um bom papo:“as palavras são como cerejas…quanto mais se come mais se quer”– disse-me ela.

Hotel do Parque
Indicado pelo Guia Michelin Espanha-Portugal
Morada: R. Pinheiro Manso, 3780-541
Telefone: 231 512 031
Facebook: http://hoteldoparquecuria.com/
Instagram:@HoteldoParqueCuria 

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