PRAIAS, LIMONCELLOS E BELAS VISTAS: GUIA PARA UMA "DOLCE VITA" NA COSTA AMALFITANA

Ah, a “dolce vita”… Não há como rumar até à Costa Amalfitana para perceber o sentido desta expressão. A vida realmente parece mais doce quando estamos deitados numa das glamorosas praias ensolaradas, a bebericar limoncellos e a apreciar as vistas.

A Costa Amalfitana é um dos destinos mais emblemáticos de Itália e, apesar da sua popularidade, as vilas e cidades que a compõe mantém um lado autêntico que justifica plenamente a sua classificação como património mundial da UNESCO.

La Costiera Amalfitana é um trecho litoral deslumbrante localizado na Campânia, no sul da Itália. Integra 13 localidades encantadoras e estende-se por cerca de 40 km desde o seu ponto de partida em Vietri sul Mare, até ao seu ponto final em Positano.

As distâncias não são grandes, mas viajar ao longo da sinuosa estrada costeira consome muito tempo.

QUAIS SÃO AS 13 VILAS E CIDADES DA COSTA AMALFITANA?

  • Amalfi
  • Atrani
  • Cetara
  • Conca dei Marini
  • Furore
  • Maiori
  • Minori
  • Positano
  • Praiano
  • Ravello
  • Scala
  • Tramonti
  • Vietri sul Mare
créditos: Tom Podmore@Unsplash

COMO CHEGO ATÉ À COSTA?

O aeroporto mais próximo é o de Nápoles. Daqui partem comboios para Sorrento, Salerno ou Vietri sul Mare. Chegando a uma destas cidades podemos alugar um automóvel e percorrer a Strada Statale 163 ou apanhar um autocarro ou um ferry para chegar a outras localidades.

Os bilhetes não podem ser comprados diretamente nos autocarros, mas podemos encontrá-los na maioria das tabacarias por toda a costa. Podemos adquirir bilhetes válidos para 1 dia, 3 dias ou para uma viagem individual.

Os ferries são mais caros, mas geralmente tornam a viagem mais rápida e oferecem vistas deslumbrantes das cidades a partir do mar. A Travelmar, a Alicost e a Alilauro são algumas das companhias que operam aqui. Os seus horários podem ser encontrados on-line e nas bilheteiras ao longo da costa.

QUAL É A VILA OU CIDADE EM QUE DEVO ME HOSPEDAR?

Considerando alguns fatores como serviços, transporte público, qualidade das praias, caminhadas e beleza geral, eu sugiro seis cidades principais:

1- Positano – por quê? Bem, com a sua profusão de casas coloridas que descem em cascata por uma encosta íngreme até à praia, é sem dúvida a cidade mais bonita de toda a costa… Infelizmente é também a mais cara.

Optar por um Airbnb poderá ficar mais em conta, mas ainda assim não esperem que seja barato.

As vistas maravilhosas, porém, ajudam (um pouco) a esquecer o preço.

Descubram mais sobre Positano aqui.

2- Amalfi – por quê? É mais acessível do que Positano e igualmente bonito. Reservem um hotel em Amalfi e ficarão alojados bem no meio da Costiera. Para quem não tem carro a sua localização central é ideal. A cidade é o principal hub de transportes da costa e tem excelentes ligações de autocarro e barco que facilitam os passeios de dia inteiro a outras localidades. Há também muito para ver e aproveitar na cidade, incluindo a praia, uma catedral medieval e o histórico museu do papel. Todos os principais pontos turísticos estão no centro compacto, que pode ser facilmente explorado a pé. Há também uma boa escolha de acomodações para todos os orçamentos e muitos cafés, bares e restaurantes.

3- Ravello – por quê? É uma vila encantadora, localizada no topo de uma colina, entre limoeiros e olivais. É muito turística durante o dia, mas recupera a sua autenticidade e identidade quando os visitantes vão para casa ao final da tarde e o ambiente fica tranquilo e romântico. Com uma boa oferta de restaurantes, hotéis e villas luxuosas e românticas, Ravello pode ser uma boa opção para casais em lua de mel.

4- Maiori – por quê? É uma boa aposta para famílias com crianças pequenas. Maiori tem uma longa praia de areia e uma boa variedade de restaurantes e hotéis. Os pais que viajam com carrinhos de bebé vão também apreciar as ruas planas, que tornam a locomoção mais fácil. O alojamento nesta localidade tende a ser ligeiramente mais barato do que em qualquer outra parte da costa.

5- Praiano – por quê? Praiano é uma vila a meio caminho entre Positano e Amalfi. Geralmente esquecida pelos turistas, tem um ambiente agradável e autêntico de aldeia pequena e é a escolha ideal para quem prefere evitar as multidões,  não se importa de estar longe de todos os principais centros de transporte e gosta de praia e de caminhar (Praiano marca o início do Sentiero degli Dei, a trilha de caminhada mais conhecida e acessível da Costa Amalfitana).

Possui poucos pontos turísticos, mas para quem gosta de praia, é perfeito — uma escada íngreme leva à popular Spiaggia della Gavitella — e as suas vistas ao pôr do sol estão entre as melhores da costa.

6- Sorrento – por quê? Embora Sorrento na verdade não faça parte da Costa Amalfitana, é uma boa opção para quem está a planear conhecer a região usando apenas transporte público. É uma cidade bonita e tranquila com um centro histórico atraente e vistas deslumbrantes do Monte Vesúvio. Tem alojamento mais barato e é perfeito para quem quer fazer viagens adicionais de um dia a PompeiaNápoles e Capri. Mas atenção, Sorrento fica longe da maioria das cidades da Costa Amalfitana. Leva um pouco mais de uma hora de autocarro a chegar a Sorrento, e cerca de uma hora e quarenta e cinco minutos para chegar a Amalfi, por exemplo.

Saibam mais sobre Sorrento aqu

créditos: KaLisa Veer@Unsplash

O QUE DEVO VER E FAZER?

1- Façam uma viagem panorâmica de comboio

A parte norte da costa de Amalfi tem sua própria linha de comboio, conhecida como Linha La Circumvesuviana, que vai de Nápoles a Sorrento. É uma ótima maneira de admirar a paisagem incrível desta região costeira e uma das formas mais eficientes (e baratas) de viajar.

Tentem conseguir um assento na janela do lado esquerdo para garantir as melhores vistas.

2- Passem um dia (ou dois) em Amalfi

Relaxem na bonita praia de Amalfi, aproveitem as vistas deslumbrantes da cidade e as águas azuis do Golfo de Salerno.
Visitem a maravilhosa catedral, que embora ampliada e renovada muitas vezes, remonta ao século IX; façam compras na Ruga Nova Mercatorum — a rua principal de Amalfi; Marquem uma degustação de vinhos na vinícola Tenuta San Francesco, que fica a cerca de meia hora de carro de Amalfi, em Tramonti e jantem no La Taverna di Masaniello (Vicolo Masaniello, 14), um dos muitos restaurantes incríveis de Amalfi, onde podem experimentar massas caseiras deliciosas.

3- Percorram o Sentiero dei Limone (Caminho dos Limões)

O Caminho dos Limões é uma trilha que conecta as cidades de Minori e Maiori. Oferece belas vistas panorâmicas e passa por entre centenas de limoeiros que produzem os famosos limões da Costa Amalfitana (Este caminho costumava ser percorrido pelos agricultores que transportavam os frutos das árvores até ao porto para os vender).

Andar de Minori até Maiori leva cerca de 1 hora, mas tenham em atenção que se começarem a caminhada em Maiori, passarão a maior parte do tempo a descer escadas até Minori. Se começarem o trilho em Minori, bem… estejam preparados para subir (pelo menos, durante a primeira parte do caminho)!

4- Apreciem a Costa Amalfitana a partir do mar

Uma das maneiras mais relaxantes de ver a Costa Amalfitana é fazendo um passeio de barco.
Não há nada como ver as casas cor pastel de Positano, Amalfi ou Minori, a erguerem-se contra a lateral das falésias.

5- Conheçam a verdadeira Positano

Muitas pessoas não sabem, mas a praia principal de Positano — Spiaggia Marina Grande, não é a única praia da cidade. Como é a que aparece em todas as fotos é muito concorrida e em algumas alturas do ano é quase impossível encontrar aqui um lugar.
No entanto, a uma curta caminhada de distância fica uma praia muito menos conhecida — a Spiaggia de Fornillo. É um pouco menor, mas ainda assim é fácil conseguir aqui uma vaga, mesmo durante o pico da temporada turística. Esta praia tem muitos restaurantes e bares, como o Pupetto, onde podemos fazer uma bela refeição ou tomar uma bebida.

Se não gostam de multidões, não fiquem no centro da cidade. Tudo a norte da praia principal é muito turístico e concorrido, mas mais para a esquerda é mais tranquilo e agradável. É também aqui que encontramos alguns dos melhores restaurantes de Positano como o Saraceno d’Oro, Il Fornillo ou Da Vincenzo Positano.

créditos: The Travellight

6- Admirem as vistas de Ravello

Ravello tem algumas das melhores vistas da Costa Amalfitana. Fica no topo das montanhas entre Amalfi e Maiori e a sua atração principal é a Villa Rufolo, uma villa romana, construída por uma família rica de comerciantes durante o século XIII. No seu auge, foi considerada uma das maiores e mais faustosas villas da Costa Amalfitana, e em seu redor surgiram lendas e histórias sobre tesouros escondidos nas suas fundações.

 

Vale igualmente a pena visitar a Piazza Centrale para ver a Catedral e a Galeria de Arte Ravello, e jantar num dos muitos restaurantes com esplanadas ao ar livre que nesta cidade proporcionam o ambiente ideal para uma refeição romântica.

7- Visitem Cetara

Cetara é uma das vilas mais autênticas e intocadas da Costa Amalfitana.
Este pequeno povoado não foi muito afetado pelo turismo e mantém praticamente intacto todo o seu encanto original.
Se quiserem ver como eram as cidades de Amalfi antes desta região ficar saturada de turistas, este é o lugar que devem visitar.

A frota pesqueira de Cetara ainda opera e permite-nos observar os pescadores em ação nos seus pequenos barcos coloridos.
Além das atividades pesqueiras, Cetara possui também uma variedade de restaurantes que servem peixe fresco e delicioso marisco.

Atenção que no verão são montados chapéus de sol e espreguiçadeiras na praia e isso atrai mais movimento e turistas.

8 – Descubram a Grotta dello Smeraldo

A Grotta dello Smeraldo (Gruta Esmeralda) é um fenómeno natural e uma das mais belas cavernas de toda a Itália.
Localizada entre Amalfi e Praiano, esta gruta é uma das poucas cavernas do mundo banhada por uma luz esmeralda natural. O efeito é simplesmente incrível e a cor da água e a própria gruta são lindas!

Para chegar à gruta existe um pequeno estacionamento junto à estrada marginal, uma ampla escadaria que desce para o mar e ainda um elevador. Depois de pagar o bilhete, os visitantes entram na gruta por um túnel artificial. No interior existe um cais com vários barcos de madeira que nos levam para uma visita guiada a este lugar surreal.

9- Apreciem as lindas quedas de água do Valle delle Ferriere

O Vale Ferriere é uma área protegida, maravilhosa para explorar por quem gosta de caminhadas e atividades ao ar livre.

Pode ser facilmente alcançado a pé a partir de Amalfi em cerca de uma hora. É agradável e fresco mesmo no auge do verão, graças às quedas de água e riachos que correm por toda a sua extensão. Todo o vale pode ser percorrido a pé ou de bicicleta. As duas trilhas principais são denominadas sentiero basso (trilha inferior) e sentiero alto (trilha superior).

É uma área pouco visitada e permite fugir da agitação habitual das movimentadas cidades costeiras de Amalfi. Além disso, as trilhas apresentam alguns pontos que nos permitem ver algumas das cidades de ângulos incomuns.

10- Visitem a charmosa cidade de Furore

Furore é um lugar fantástico para se visitar na parte central da Costa Amalfitana.

As estradas que levam até Furore são bastante espetaculares e passam por dramáticos penhascos e fileiras e mais fileiras de socalcos repletos de vinhas.

A sua praia, muito cénica, faz sucesso no Instagram e dentro dos limites da cidade, a decorar as paredes de algumas das casas e lojas, podemos encontrar magníficos murais pintados à mão que mostram algumas representações coloridas da vida na Costa Amalfitana.

11 – Passem um dia (e uma noite) na Ilha de Capri

Capri é um lugar verdadeiramente mágico e um dos destinos mais populares da Costa Amalfitana.
Esta ilha fica na extremidade oeste da Costa e pode ser alcançada por barcos que operam a partir de várias cidades costeiras.

Capri é conhecida pelas suas paisagens deslumbrantes, pelas praias, pela Grotta Azzurra (Gruta Azul) e pela sua vibrante vida noturna.

Saibam mais sobre a Ilha de Capri aqui.

12- Façam uma viagem pelas Ilhas Sirenuse

Este pequeno grupo de ilhas pode ser encontrado na costa sul de Amalfi, entre Capri e Positano.
Elas fazem parte do Arquipélago da Campânia e devem o seu nome (Sirenuse) às sereias mitológicas que supostamente viveram lá na antiguidade.

Um passeio de barco por Isca, Vetara, Gallo Lungo, La Castelluccia e La Rotonda, é uma atividade muito agradável. Gallo Longo, a maior ilha do grupo, é atualmente propriedade privada, mas as águas calmas que a circundam estão abertas ao público, o que significa que os visitantes podem, pelo menos, ter um vislumbre da ilha, enquanto nadam e mergulham.

Sigam as minhas aventuras mais recentes no Instagram e no Facebook.

Artigo originalmente publicado no blogue The Travellight World

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