André Conrado - O Caminho de Paty do Alferes - Parte 1

Imagem de Paty do Alferes - Fim do Séc XIX - Biblioteca Nacional

Deixando para trás o belo Vale Encantado de Vassouras, convido ao leitor a seguirmos o Caminho do Alferes, e visitarmos a histórica cidade vizinha Paty do Alferes; cheia de histórias do glorioso passado dessa região. 

A história de Paty do Alferes se confunde com a de Garcia Rodrigues Paes, filho de Fernão Dias Paes, o lendário “Caçador de Esmeraldas”, em 1700, ano em que foi aberto por ele o Caminho Novo para escoamento do ouro de Minas Gerais ao Rio de Janeiro.

Foto da Locomotiva em Paty do Alferes - final séc XIX - Biblioteca Nacional

Quando Frei Antonil, percorrendo o Caminho, descreveu sua viagem no livro ” Cultura e Opulência do Brasil “, datado de 1711, citou a Sesmaria da Pau Grande ( no atual distrito de Avelar ) como já sendo uma roça que principiava, desbravada em plena selva.

A partir da ocupação de terras da sesmaria da Pau Grande, Paty do Alferes, que começou a florescer ainda no sec. XVII, se desenvolveu em ritmo acelerado. Muitos sesmeiros logo se agruparam em torno do primeiro núcleo.

Foto antiga Fazenda Pau Grande - Séc XX

Grandes historiadores divergem quanto a origem do nome de Paty do Alferes porém, os registros históricos nos apontam para alguns caminhos e o certo é que, por essas terras se estabeleceram, no início da colonização, dois Alferes de Ordenança: Leonardo Cardoso da Silva e Francisco Tavares (depois elevado a Capitão), no local que era conhecido como a “Roça do Alferes” e que foi da união do nome do posto militar de Alferes ao vocábulo indígena dado a uma palmeira abundante na região – os “patis” – que começou a se delinear, às margens do Caminho Novo, Paty do Alferes.

O Capitão Francisco Tavares era o dono da fazenda onde se ergueu a 1ª capela que o Bispo Antônio de Guadalupe, na viagem de 1726, transformou em Curato para atender aos demais cristãos da região

Foto do Capitão Francisco Tavares - séc XVIII

O Capitão foi, ainda, quem doou o terreno em que foi erguida a 1ª Matriz, no ano de 1739, na Freguesia de Nª Sraª da Conceição do Alferes.

Estas fertilíssimas terras, banhadas pelo Ribeirão de Ubá e Rio do Saco, primeiro acolheram o plantio da cana-de-açúcar. Um século depois, neste mesmo solo, o café viria brotar como ouro, fazendo nascer também uma aristocracia rural formada por nobres intimamente ligados à Corte como o Visconde de Ubá, o Barão de Capivary, o Barão de Guaribú, dentre muitos outros… 

Na viagem do Duque de Luxemburgo fez ao Brasil, trouxe em sua comitiva, Auguste de Saint-Hilaire que escreveu, em 1823, o livro “Viagem pelas Províncias do Rio de Janeiro e Minas Gerais” onde foram descritas minuciosamente as construções, os hábitos e até mesmo as tecnologias que eram usadas para a manufatura do açúcar, tornando-se um dos melhores e mais ricos relatos históricos das fazendas e engenhos desta região

Imagem histórica de Paty do Alferes - Século XIX - Biblioteca Nacional

A riqueza do ciclo do café é citada também em antigos e importantes relatos de viajantes, cientistas e estudiosos que passaram por Paty do Alferes nessa época, como Charles RibeyrollesVisconde de TaunayJosé Matoso Maia Forte e Alberto Lamego.

Elevada ao posto de Vila, em 1820, apesar da pompa com que foi fundada, Paty do Alferes, continuou crescendo apenas dentro dos limites das grandes fazendas e não houve interesse pelo desenvolvimento urbano. Quando a sede foi transferida, em 1833, para a Vila de Vassouras, a nobreza rural patyense permaneceu atuando ativamente na política

Foto da Estação Ferroviária de Paty de Alferes - Séc XX - Biblioteca Nacional

Foi em Paty do Alferes, que se desenrolou um dos mais importantes levantes de negros do Estado do Rio de Janeiro. 

A fuga em massa da Fazenda Freguesia, causou pânico entre os fazendeiros, não propriamente pelo número de escravos rebelados, e sim, pelo que isso representava. Aos primeiros se juntaram os escravos de outras propriedades, mostrando muita organização.

Numa região prioritariamente agrícola, alimentada pela mão-de-obra escrava, Manoel Congo, entrou para a história como o líder, que em 1838, fez tremer os sólidos alicerces do regime escravocrata fluminense nas terras do café.

Foto do Quilombo de Manoel Congo

Com grande festa, em 1844, foi inaugurada a Matriz de Nª Sª da Conceição, em terra doadas pelo Capitão-mór de Ordenança Manoel Francisco Xavier e sua esposa D. Francisca Elisa Xavier. Em estilo colonial, a construção foi iniciada em 1840 e hoje, o prédio é tombado pelo IPHAN, como patrimônio histórico da União.

Foto da Igreja Matriz Nossa Senhora da Conceição - Paty do Alferes

Em belas terras “patyenses”, no ano de 1870, nasceu Imortal Joaquim Osório Duque-Estrada, autor da letra do nosso Hino Nacional. 

Com o esgotamento dos solos e sem matas virgens para derrubar, as plantações de café tornaram-se pouco produtivas. A nobreza rural empobreceu e emigrou. A região entrou em grande decadência econômica no final do século XIX. 

Iniciou-se, então, a pecuária leiteira e produção de laticínios na região. Imigrantes italianos, alemães e japoneses, embora em pequeno número, introduziram técnicas agrícolas que revitalizaram a economia regional.

O excelente clima da região passou a ser conhecido nacionalmente com a propaganda feita grande médico infectologista, Miguel da Silva Pereira, nos anos de 1930. 

Muitos turistas procedentes da cidade do Rio de Janeiro começaram, então, a passar temporadas de verão na região.

Foto do Centro de Paty do Alferes - 1949 - Biblioteca Nacional

Na próxima matéria, chegaremos em tempos atuais na bela Paty do Alferes. Falaremos da vocação turística e da famosa Festa do Tomate. Não percam!

Fontes:

Arquivo Nacional

Biblioteca Nacional Digital

Instituto Moreira Salles

IBGE

IPHAN

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