Revista do Villa 
No final de fevereiro, o mundo vai conhecer os looks da Semana de Moda Paris, um dos mais importantes eventos para a indústria de vestuário mundial. Ainda bastante influente no gosto do público em geral, as coleções apresentadas pelas grandes marcas na França criam uma demanda global, inspirando lojas populares a oferecerem peças semelhantes ao que foi visto nas passarelas. Será que vamos ter um rompimento com o passado? Ou o mercado vai se manter na direção que vinha caminhando no ano anterior?
É famosa a cena do consagrado filme “O Diabo veste Prada” no qual a editora de moda rebate os olhares de desdém de sua assistente, explicando que os itens mostrados naquela sala irão definir o que a população deve vestir nos próximos anos. Mas, diferente do que muita gente imagina, as tendências de moda não surgem apenas por capricho de um pequeno grupo ou pela mente de um designer. Existe uma grande movimentação, estudo e pesquisa para que uma marca escolha determinados tecidos, cores e materiais.
Muitas vezes, as coleções apresentadas nas passarelas trazem roupas que para muitas pessoas seriam extravagantes demais para serem usadas no dia a dia pelas pessoas comuns. No entanto, em desfiles de moda, os especialistas estarão de olho em informações mais precisas e principalmente nos detalhes. Os tecidos utilizados, tonalidades de cores, cumprimento de roupas e conceitos dos desfiles em geral serão determinantes na moda do público muito mais do que se uma modelo vai entrar vestida como uma fantasia ou uma personagem de contos de fadas.
Antes de estabelecer uma coleção, a indústria da moda precisa observar o mercado de produção de matérias primas para elaboração de tecidos ou pigmentos. Pragas nas plantações de algodão da Índia ou os protestos de ambientalistas sobre a produção de corantes tóxicos na China podem ter grande influência na escolha dos tecidos e cores que serão apresentados. A viabilidade econômica na produção de tecidos sintéticos, a crise do petróleo e as superssafras de determinado vegetal serão critérios definitivos na escolha de um estilista ao lançar uma coleção.
Então, antes de definir se a moda agora é flanela, jeans ou peças tricotadas em lã, os estilistas precisarão consultar se os materiais são economicamente viáveis para serem produzidos para o inverno de dois ou três anos seguidos.
Importante também na criação de uma coleção é a percepção de como o público-alvo percebe o contexto político, cultural e social do momento. Por exemplo, durante uma pandemia, é natural que as roupas mais sóbrias sejam preferidas em vez de um look mais festivo.
Em linhas gerais, a pandemia afetou desde a produção de matéria prima até o estado emocional dos consumidores. Por isso, os desfiles que serão apresentados na semana de moda em Paris vão nos revelar mais do que o pensamento extravagante de estilistas excêntricos. Olhares atentos podem perceber toda uma série de informações sobre como e para onde o mercado irá caminhar nos próximos anos
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