Arquiteto e designer Celso Rayol lança M.u.t.u.al., acessórios masculinos: entrevista por Rodolfo Abreu

O arquiteto e designer Celso Rayol lança a linha M.u.t.u.a.l.

Arquiteto de renome com mais de 30 anos de trajetória, o carioca Celso Rayol desenvolve projetos de arquitetura e design com características únicas. Sócio-fundador da Cité Arquitetura junto ao também arquiteto Fernando Costa, também preside a Associação Brasileira de Escritórios de Arquitetura – AsBEA-RJ, e atua como professor universitário na PUC-RIO pelo curso de Arquitetura e Urbanismo. Em 2022, Celso Rayol lançou a M.u.t.u.a.l., linha de anéis masculinos que levam sua assinatura, e sobre a qual conversou com exclusividade com Rodolfo Abreu para a Revista do Villa.

Atuando como um arquiteto de sucesso, você desenvolveu um estilo pessoal que consolidou sua identidade. Como entram os anéis na sua identidade visual?

Costumo falar que não fazemos arquitetura genérica, mas uma arquitetura que está muito ligada àquela situação urbana, identidade, atmosfera e ambiência do lugar em que projetamos. As respostas que damos em projeto reforçam as relações de pertencimento existentes e possíveis, pensando a partir da pesquisa e de uma leitura sensível que sempre busquei em meu trabalho e impulsionamos na Cité.

Com relação à minha identidade visual, foi um caminho de muita liberdade. Digo que vou do terno ao quimono. A liberdade que eu tenho para criar acabou sendo tanbém a liberdade que tenho para me vestir, e os anéis vieram nesse sentido. Essa brincadeira se relaciona com uma entrevista que dei para o caderno Ela (O Globo) e cujo título era “O Senhor dos Anéis”. Foi aí que parei para pensar como eles faziam parte dessa fala de um pouquinho de misticismos, amuletos e da minha história – ou seja, cada anel vem contando uma parte do todo através do lugar físico ou espiritual de que vieram, do mesmo modo como faço projetando.

Como surgiu a ideia de lançar uma linha de acessórios com a sua assinatura?

Sou sempre muito provocado pela situação, por algo a que eu me exponho, pela relação do meio ambiente, da sociedade. Sempre fui meio “mutual”, mudando muito, com coisas que acontecem na vida e oportunidades de traçar as mudanças mais radicalmente. Nesse caso, a provocação veio de umas amigas que falaram: “Você usa tantos anéis, mas não tem um anel seu, criado por você?”. O M.u.t.u.a.l., então, veio dessa ideia de ter dentre os acessórios que uso – uso colares também – um que fosse com uma construção que se aproxima muito da minha arquitetura, com minha marca.

Como a Arquitetura influencia no design dessas peças?

A ligação é direta, mas não necessariamente atrelada às formas, apesar de tê-las. O M.u.t.u.a.l tem um trabalho com traçados mais tradicionais, de formas perfeitas, e a questão da precisão, que fala bastante da minha arquitetura. Mas, o principal elo foi trazer a história por detrás. Em uma viagem que fiz ao México com meus filhos nos deparamos com uma relação direta com as árvores, com a ideia de que é um elemento de maior conexão entre o céu e a terra por causa da copa e da raiz (uma vai pra cima e outra para baixo). Isso tem a ver com a polaridade e o que vivemos na sociedade, tanto na parte política, principalmente, mas também no certo e errado, positivo e negativo, feminino e masculino. Vi essa construção quase como uma resposta ao que a gente está vivendo e a ideia por trás do anel, que constrói essas duas faces que se juntam, quase se tocam. Assim, sigo sempre falando que uma coisa que está em contraponto a outra, mas está coexistindo. Principalmente se houver o respeito, as coisas dão certo.

Conte sobre a criação das peças e qual a sua colaboração no processo.

Comecei com a questão de abordar qual seria o material e relação de pedras que simbolizasse essa ideia, como o ônix e o quartzo rotilado que tem um pouco desse misticismo das pedras. Depois, foram produzidos muitos desenhos. As peças vieram com o rigor de um arquiteto (não tem jeito): fiz a modelagem em 3D para testar, para chegar à proporcionalidade e ao equilíbrio das formas. Em seguida, trabalhei junto a um ourives a quem dei muita informação técnica, o que foi importante para chegar exatamente onde eu queria.

Quantos modelos são e como são disponibilizados para aquisição?

Ao todo, são quatro modelos: um principal que tem as formas no topo do anel uma diferente da outra e cujos lados tem espessuras distintas. Há também os modelos em que o corpo do anel toma uma só proporção ou aqueles em que os dois retângulos de pedras são do mesmo tamanho, pequenos ou grandes. Em comum, todos não se encostam ou fecham o círculo, deixando uma certa “flutuação”, como se fosse a copa de uma árvore  As diferentes variações são quase como se fossem novos olhares sobre um mesmo objeto. Gosto de extrapolar o exercício sobre uma mesma peça e não abandonar para começar uma outra. Por fim, a confecção deles foi artesanal, cada peça é única e exclusiva. Fiz esse caminho por que era para eu mesmo usar. A partir do momento que as pessoas começaram a se interessar, coloquei no meu Instagram e desde então tenho recebido encomendas.

Ter feito esse anel foi um ato de transformação para mim. Essa criação foi como um exercício e acho isso muito importante em qualquer ofício, não ficarmos com olho somente naquilo em que a gente trabalha. Tenho percebido isso dando aulas por 20 anos na PUC e na Cândido Mendes, e até mesmo no escritório. Essa busca pelas diferentes formas de criação é o que transforma nosso dia a dia. Não ficar específico, mas cada vez mais abrangente; o mundo está exigindo isso de nós.

Há planos para lançamento de uma nova coleção ou até mesmo de outros produtos com seu design autoral?

A gente nunca para. Tiveram amigos que, até por conta do anel, me procuraram para fazer uma série de móveis. Uma coisa vai levando a outra. Nós na Cité, junto com o Fernando Costa, já criamos algumas peças pela Cité by Design. Dei aula em Design de Produto na PUC por uns nove anos e fui me aproximando disso. Inclusive, fiz mais um colar, mas não cheguei a fazer um lançamento. Num primeiro processo de encontro com essa parte mais ligada à joalheria, me empolguei com a “brincadeira” e, principalmente, com o sucesso que fez esse primeiro anel.

Celso Rayol, arquiteto e designer.

Fotos: Fabio Seixo

Celso Rayol nas redes sociais

www.citearquitetura.com.br

www.instagram.com/citearquitetura

www.instagram.com/celsorayol

#acessórios #masculinos #anel #colar #arquitetura #design #moda #pedra #ônix #fashion #criativo #identidadevisual #look

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